Travel like you're 30- Paris is always a good idea

"This is what you do on your very first day in Paris. You get yourself, not a drizzle, but some honest-to-goodness rain, and you find yourself someone really nice and drive her through the Bois de Boulogne in a taxi. The rain’s very important. That’s when Paris smells its sweetest." -Sabrina Fairchild played by Audrey Hepburn 

My photos from Paris leave a lot to be desired, but, I think that Sabrina Fairchild would approve of the reason why. Our first, and only, full day in Paris, we had an "honest-to-goodness" rain. I didn't come home with iconic photos of the Eiffel Tower and Arc du Triumph. In fact, I barely saw the Tower and didn't see the Arc at all! Nonetheless, I thought my time in Paris was enchanting. Rainy, cold, and enchanting. 

We took a mid-afternoon train from London and arrived in Paris near 5PM. We got ourselves to our hostel, which, though the accommodations were very nice (maybe the nicest of any hostel on the trip), the location and ambience was a bit of a let down after our cozy, friendly, perfectly located digs in London. Since we were so far from the city center, I suggested a jaunt up to Montemarte to see Sacre Coeur that evening. We took the trip by foot, and saw a different side of Paris than the average tourist sees- the side of Paris that rioted just days later. That foot journey was less than enchanting, but was nonetheless valuable to me. It doesn't suit me to just see what's beautiful. I like to see and feel what's real, if only for a moment. 

The church itself was just as I remembered it from ten years ago, but the neighborhood surrounding it seemed different. I have these magical memories of eating dinner underneath strings of lights and seeing the city sparkle in the distance. I'll keep those because this time we were cold and though the city stretched out before us, I don't think that I saw that same sparkle the night we went to Sacre Coeur. Tired and cold, Chandler and I took the metro back to our hostel, and Robin and Nicole braved the drizzle but managed to get twisted around on their way back. Thankful for warmth and the hostel's washers and dryers, we spend the rest of the night doing laundry and watching the World Cup. 

The next day, I woke up early and made my way to Rue Dauphine, pain au chocolate in one hand and metro ticket in the other. Why Rue Dauphine? Because my friend from BSF, Emily Harding, and her husband are spending the next few months in a a great little apartment on Rue Dauphine while Josh is in Paris on business.   Here are some pics of their apartment. 

I didn't want to be super nosy and take tons of pictures of their place, but this is the guest room I stayed in. The address is great and the apartment is so nice- very modern and spacious. 

View of Rue Dauphine from their living room window. 

Stairs up to their place

Emily and I spent a few minutes catching up before meeting up with the rest of my group for a city walking tour. One of the best things that Robin and I did was take the free walking tour in London, Paris and Madrid. We learned about the tours from our hostels, and we had great guides for all of them, but our guide in Paris, a Mexican man named Alberto, was the best of them all. It was raining, but not hard at that point. I was wearing multiple layers of clothing to fight the chilly wind, and so we set out. 

I can hardly believe this is the only picture I took of Notre Dame. Maybe it was the rain, or I was just caught up in listening to our tour guide. I thought I would come back later and take more shots, but I never did. I did walk by Notre Dame later in the evening, with Emily and Josh and her cousins, who were also in Paris for the evening. I stole glances of the flying buttresses with street light and rain splashed on them, but never got a photo. 

I took pictures of this bridge because I loved all of the stories associated with it, it's called Pont Neuf, but there's some fun folklore associated with the bridge, including a story about the king who commissioned it. Apparently the faces carved into the sides are the faces of his drunk friends. It also happens to be the bridge I walked across to get to Emily and Josh's place, so another reason to find it a little special. 

Then, of course, there is the famous lock bridge, the Pont des Arts, which is just across from the Louvre. Even though they cut through the locks, and even replace whole sections of the bridge regularly, you have to appreciate the symbolism when you're there. I mean, it's Paris. Who doesn't get caught up in the romance of it all? 

I didn't go into the Louvre this time. I had my sights set on the Musee d'Orsay, but who doesn't love walking through this plaza and encountering the famous glass pyramid. I was glad our tour guide took us through. I couldn't help but think  about Robert Langdon.

After the tour, I went by myself to grab a bite to eat before heading to the Musee d'Orsay. I went to a corner cafe and ordered French Onion soup, which couldn't have been more perfect. I expected to just sit by myself and listen to the traffic and the rain, before scooting over to the museum, but I was pleasantly surprised when that plan failed. Instead, I began to chat with the woman seated next to me in the cafe- she was from Dallas, of all places, and had come to Paris alone to listen to jazz. We talked about traveling- she's been all over the world- and Paris and Texas and then even headed over to the museum together. My only regret is that I got to the museum so much later than I would have liked. We arrived at 4 and it closes at 6, which gave me just enough time to get through the Impressionist gallery, but it just wasn't enough. I guess I'll have to go back! ;) 

The Impressionist Gallery is on the top floor of the Museum. I don't take pictures of art when I'm in museums. In my mind, taking snapshots of art defeats the purpose of going to a museum. I don't mind taking pictures of relics or the museum itself, but art, in my very humble opinion, should just be experienced, not caught on camera. I love seeing art in person. The experience is so different from what you see in the pages of a book or on a website. The Impressionist gallery brought tears to my eyes. I love Impressionist art. And I loved being in the Musee d'Orsay. This clock is at the end of the Impressionist gallery. 

Sacre Coeur and the Ferris Wheel in the Jardin Tuileries

The Louvre and a tour boat on the Seine

After the museum, I went back to Emily's and got cleaned up. The timing of my visit coincided with the timing of a vist from Emily's aunt and uncle and two of their daughters. They live here in Austin, but have been in South Africa for about six months, and they stopped in Paris on their way back to the states. I can't tell you what a blessing it was to get to spend an evening in Paris with that sweet family. Emily's family reminds me a lot of my own extended family and I couldn't have been more blessed that evening in Paris than to spend dinner with them at an amazing restaurant, where I ate veal and creme brulee. Before saying good-bye, Emily's uncle prayed over me while we all stood together on the street and rain fell around us. 

The next morning, I was determined to see the Eiffel Tower, which is a short enough distance from Rue Dauphine that I was able to run there and back before saying good-bye to Emily and Josh and rejoining my travel crew. On the way there, I ran through the drizzle, watching street sweepers and business people on their way to work. I said a "hello" to the Eiffel Tower, and then ran along the Seine on my way back to Rue Dauphine. 

On the way to rejoin my group before catching our flight to Madrid, I wandered, again through the drizzle, through the Luxembourg gardens. 

I had to take one photo of the Eiffel Tower. Like I said when I started the blog, much to be desired, right? But still, Paris was wonderful. I'm beginning to agree with Audrey, not only about the rain though, but just in general. I think Paris really is always a good idea.

Travel like you're 30- some pictures from the UK

Right about this time last summer, I went for a run one sweltering afternoon. I wanted to go for a run because I felt lazy. I felt lazy because I had spent the afternoon watching Le Tour de France with Robin and Preston. I was amazed by how hard the cyclists worked- riding five hours or more nearly every day for three weeks, up treacherous mountains and then down serpentine roads at break-neck speed. It was the first time I'd ever really watched the Tour. I'd always heard about it, but never had really known a cycling enthusiast who could explain it to me. Thanks to Preston and Robin, I developed not only an understanding, but a sort of reverence for the intense athletic achievement that is the Tour de France and for the cyclists who brave the trip around France each summer. I was inspired, but not to become like them- road biking is not this soccer player's all time favorite exercise- but to be active, to be adventurous, to be... in Europe. ;) So it was on this run that I had the hair-brained idea that I should go to Europe next summer and see the Tour de France. And I knew that Robin was just hair-brained enough to go with me. ;) It didn't take much convincing. Robin has adventure in her blood and wanderlust in her eye, she was on board right away. My sweet husband, though a mite jealous of my freedom to travel in the summer, is too good to me to give me anymore than an 'atta girl when it comes to my adventure-seeking. So we bought tickets in the fall, found two other travel partners- Nicole and Chandler- and this July 2nd we were on our way. 

I've recorded a few things from our three week journey on camera. I'm not the best photographer. I struggle with the dynamic between living life and capturing it. A shutter-bug I will never be. But, I did at least try to capture some of the moments to share. So, here some are. These are all from the UK. I'll post more entries from the cities we visited in France and Spain. The funny thing about it is, none of my favorite memories were caught on camera. So I'll just have to figure out a way to tell you. They say a picture is worth a thousand words, but this writer is dubious- words still suit me just fine. 

Flowers at Covent Garden Market 

Trafalgar Square- which turned into the Tour de France officially fan headquarters a few days later. The energy in the square on the day the Tour came into London was pleasantly intense. I think Brits are too polite to get really, really excited. 

One of my favorite memories came after I took this shot, when the rider told his horse, who was snorting and high-stepping- to "behave."

Big Ben

Westminster Abbey- which we did not go into. Three weeks in Europe is expensive, so I didn't re-do many of the things that I did when I went to Europe with my family ten years ago. 

Parliament

At King's Cross Station- of Harry Potter Fame. Which brings up another favorite memory, one not caught on camera. On our train back from Yorkshire, Robin and I sat in seats just in front of a most gentle father, who read the third Harry Potter to his son aloud. It was purely magical listening to this patient dad answer his son's questions and bring the story to life as we chugged through the English countryside- all in that magical accent. 

View from Primrose Hill

Restoration of original meadow landscape project in Regent's Park 

I had to visit Worrell House, my brother's old stomping grounds from his time studying abroad a decade ago. 

Worrell House

Beautiful stroll through Regent's Park to get back to Central London 

In Leeds, the morning of the Grand Depart for the Tour de France- crowded, chaotic, charming. :) 

Here they come- their first mile of the 2014 Tour de France

I loved these knit jerseys in a shop window in Leeds. So cute and festive. 

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St. Paul's Cathedral- another favorite memory is connected with this church. While we were on Primrose Hill, a nanny was telling the little girl she looked after about some of the sites in the distance. When she pointed to St. Paul's, she told the little girl that Princess Diana got married there. The little girl, who was probably around four, said, "I know her!" but then asked dozens of questions about Princess Diana's life and her tragic death. Her response, "That's so sad. She was a real princess." 

Aspen tree grove in front of the Tate Modern. I went into the Tate and saw my first real Salvador Dali. 

The Millenium Bridge which connects the old to the new, spanning across the Thames from St. Paul's to the Tate Modern. 

I loved the details of this gate near the Globe Theater. 

The Tower Bridge

I loved this hidden pop of vibrant color. 

The pictures above were all from a shop called Thomas Farthing, which sold reasonably priced, good quality men's clothing- all with a sort of turn-of-the-century twist. I loved it! And wished that my dad, Grant and Andy were all there with me. I did purchase a gift, though. ;) 

At the British Museum

Ceiling at the British Museum

This fossil is catalogued as something like 4 million years old. And they let me hold it! 

Easter Island

The Rosetta Stone, which is impossible to take a good picture of. 

Wedgewood China was designed after this vase . 

A copy of the Rosetta Stone- easier to take pictures of. :) 

The interesting architecture inside the British Museum. 

Me holding a denarius. 

And now, the Tour de France arrives in London. 

I was about 300m from the finish line. 

Giant screens set up to catch the day's stage. 

I didn't take pictures of the cyclists coming in. I got video, and then, to my dismay, accidentally deleted the best one I got. But, it is one of those things that I'll keep in my memory. The speed of them coming down that last stretch, after rounding the curve just in front of Buckingham Palace- it was really a thrill. 

I stumbled upon the awards ceremony for the first stage and snapped a few shots. Lots of people. 

Reformer's Tree- a memorial to the real tree where members of the Protestant Reformation met to share information with one another- the real tree was burned down. 

I got to run through Hyde Park the morning that the Tour came through London. Robin and I woke up early- I think it was like 6AM when we arrived at the Mall, where the Tour would ride through later that afternoon. It was nearly deserted that morning, mostly just French workers preparing for the Tour. After we scoped out the scene that would be filled with excitement later in the day, I went for a run in Hyde Park. It was my favorite run of the trip- crisp, green, quiet. I went back the next morning with my camera, but it doesn't do it justice. 

Sycamore

I can't get enough of English rose gardens. I'd spend hours in one if I could stand to sit still that long. ;) 

One quick, and not very good, snapshot of Leicester Square was all we had time for. Train to France was leaving at 2. 

Robin in the right corner. 

We loved this advice that was hanging in the entry of our hostel. Travel like you're 30- why not? 

This blue door was the entrance to our cozy little hostel - the Astor Museum Inn. It was a great intro to hostel life. Friendly staff, clean accommodations, quiet neighborhood across the street from the British Museum. I would definitely recommend to anyone thinking of doing the hostel thing.